Betta Fish Breeding Top Secrets
General info on betta breeding
Before betta breeding it is important to under stand the basics. Betta splendens are bubblenest builders. Like gouramies, a few species of dwarf pikes, and a few catfish species, and a few otehr species of bettas. Some bettas like betta marcrostoma are mouthbrooding bettas which are very similar to some cichlids. Anyway in the world of betta splendens, the males are the ones who will look after the eggs and young for awhile. The males also do this by building a nest out of bubbles. His spit is on the bubbles which acts like a dis-infecting agent. Anyway the females only job is to release the eggs, the male will chase the female away as she in his eyes may pose a threat to eat some eggs.
A picture section which shows breeding bettas, tank set-ups, wrapping, signs is under way now, so within a month hopefully the site will be running 100% and all of the text is done and pictures and videos is done
it is important not to just rush into breeding bettas, you must first condition both of the breeders. 2 weeks is generally the suggested time frame. As you need to feed the female alot of highly fat and protein rich foods to get her to produce alot of eggs. The male needs alot of food as when he is in the breeding tank, he shouldnt be feed, and when he is with the fry he probably wont eat. Worms are a good food for conditioning bettas. Blood worms are mosquito larve and good in protein and fat. feeding the bettas 2 times aday worms is a good feeding plan. I wouldn’t let the male and female see eachother until the one week b4 adding them both in the breeding tanks.
Tank set up
A bare tank is a must. I dont understand why people add gravel unless they are trying to breed bettas in a community tank, which speaks for itself…. Anyway you need a bare bottom b/c the eggs are very small and will fall constantly so gravel will just make the eggs get suck, rot and fowl the tank. It is a good idea to keep the sponge filter on the opposite side of the tank and not even have it running until the male is out. I would suggest using a clear cup or glass bowl etc.. in the middle of the tank, This is where the female bettas is going to be added to, so that the male can see her, and she is protected. Adding live plants around the tank will add protection and food for the fry, also helps clean the water. For the nest you can either go in three directions. One is to add a half cut sytrofoam cup in the tank and tap it to one of the sides. The male will usually build the nest under this. Another way to go is use alot of floating plants like ricca to get the male to build under there. The other way to go is to just let the male build a bubble nest anywhere, however this is sometimes no good as he can build a nest on the bowl of the female and when you go and release her, it may destroy the nest. The best way to go is with the stryofoam cup. A heater is a good idea, and generall like the filter, should be placed at the otehr end of the tank. Keep the tank covered, it is very important to keep the atmosphere temp the same as the water as the baby fish dont have have their labrith organ ready yet and cold air can kill them. So a book or a hood provides good coverage. Always allow the water in the breeding tank sit for aday or two like yo would for anyfish tank. A good temp is 85*F as bettas naturally come from a warm enviroment. pic: pic: again
Adding the bettas
It would probably be a good idea to add the female in her bowl first,allow her the time to get use to the surroundings. Next you can add the male into the main section of the breding tank. He should see the female and within hours he should be a usual male betta and start flaring. By allowing the female to be comfy she should respond with confience and not be scared. The male should soon start to build a nest. During this time it is important not to really bother them and try to both keep the noice down and the surrounding light down.
usually within a day you should see alot of progress. The male should usually have a few bubbles in the nest site, and the female should usually be verticly barred up and dancing. If you see her scared and at the bottom with horizantal stripes that usually isn’t a good thing, meaning she isn’t ready but give it time, if the signs are still there they probably wont breed. A common mistake that i often see is people release the female way to earily, this not only endangers her life, but makes the breeding process go alot slower. There is really no need to release her when the signs that i am about to show up aren’t present. Usually when the female is attacked by the male to earily, she will have fear stripes and breeding slows down, not good, so trust me and dont release her yet as the male can see her and she is fully protected and isn’t alarmed. For the female signs, she should really be confident and rich in color and have verticle stripes. This will only make the male work harder to get the nest done. Just allow her to stay in the bowl for awhile longer until the nest is done.
When the male has the nest the way he likes it, he will change is approach, he will usually stop trying to bite her every time, and instead almost do a dance in trying to lure her to the nest. so in short less attacks and more swimming to her, dance, and swim back to the nest. Dont forget that some males build bigger nest and others dont. If you see the male doing this “dance” you should also see the female acting in a similar way swimming and dancing. Now you can release her, and it will usually either end up like this. The female will sometimes go under the nest, because she is ready and the male may not understand thi(especially younger males, thats why it best to start out with older males) The male may attack her and the female will usually either, swim away and try again later, or she will stick around and if she is really ready, than she will swim head down, clamped fins, and in a “S” pattern. This is a good sign. Now sometimes before this, the male may attack her and keep going after her, if this happens it is a good idea to put her back into the bowl before she gets really hurt. Anyway if she is swimming in that pattern the male should understand this sign. Usually he will continue building the nest and in a perfect world the female will push the male and they will wrap under the nest. But sometimes the male could be to involved with his nest that the female get bored and leave or attack the male. if this happens please see the troubleshooting section below.
The actual spawning
The male and female will embrace under the nesting area. Either they will stay at the top or fall to the bottom. Either is ok. The wrapping it self maybe unsucessful at first, many bad wraps can happen before the male and female get it right and eggs fall. If it is sucessful you will see the male and female be stunned for a few seconds. Dont worry this is normal and they will soon get back to normal. The male is usually the first to recover and he will usually go down and get the eggs using his mouth. The female will usually help pick up the eggs. You can sometimes see the male and or female get a take of air and then place the eggs in the bubblenest. But sometimes they will continue wrapping. But at some point the male and female will get the eggs and release them into the bubbles. The whole process can last anywhere from 1 hour to 7 hours. Thats why having time is important. After they are done the male will take care of the eggs and chase the female away. At this point it is a must to remove her. The male is now left with the responcibility to pick up the eggs when they fall. If he eats the eggs see the troubleshoot section below.
Post care for female
After you remove her it is important to put her in a tank with no other fishes and very clean water. Adding some bettamax is probably a good idea to help her recover from her injures that she might have gotten during breeding. I wouldn’t feed her the first day after removing her. The day after it would be ok to feed her worms or pellets again. It is important not to rush her right away into a community tank. It is important to watch out for any signs of infections or illness. So keep an eye out and products like bettamax helps.
The next few days the male should be busy getting the eggs off of the bottom of the aquarium and blowing them into the nest. It isn’t uncommon to have the male move the nest or bubbles. The spit he uses to make the nest are good in keeping the eggs clean and infection free. Depending on the temp of the water, the eggs may hatch in 1-3 days. The babies should be little white dots. They might swim around trying to get back to the nest but most are unsucessful, a good male parent will get most of the fry and add them back into the nest. You dont need to feed the babies anything at this stage but it is a good idea to start your brine shrimp eggs at this point.
Simply get a soda bottle, and add 1/2 warm water and some salt water mix(if u get a brine shrimp set they come with the right balance of salt) add a piece of air tubing at the bottom and allow the bubbles to go and create a current. If you looking for quality breeding pair, you may find some that you want by visit this betta fish for sale online store. The warmer the better. The eggs should hatch within aday, and the brine shrimp babies are little reddish dots that are moving. You want to feed the baby bettas the baby brine shrimp or BBS for short. To get the brine shrimp out of the soda bottle it is important to get a very very fine mesh brine shrimp nets and use a light to attrach the brine shrimp and gental pour the water out over a bucket and filter out the BBS. Since brine shrimp are saltwater it is a good idea to rince them under gental tap water to wash away salt.